![]() ![]() In 2017, Benvenuto presided over an association called Cuisine niçoise, patrimoine de l’humanité that successfully applied to have Niçois cuisine protected as part of Unesco’s Intangible Cultural Heritage Lists. If it’s poorly seasoned, if it’s poorly cooked, really, a ratatouille can be rubbish.” “It’s a really simple dish,” Sedefdjian said, “but frankly, there aren’t a lot of people making it well. Cooks often opt for the wrong variety of vegetable, for example, choosing watery supermarket courgette instead of the Niçois “trompette” variety so beloved locally for its nutty aroma, or chucking all of the vegetables into a slow cooker instead of frying them individually. “Often, ratatouille can be a sad and watery afterthought, plopped next to a protein like chicken, beef or lamb,” said Rosa Jackson, founder of Les Petits Farcis culinary school in Nice, who teaches ratatouille as part of her Best of Nice series, now online. Cooking the vegetables separately ensures that “each will taste truly of itself,” said the late chef Joël Robuchon.īut while Sedefdjian is certainly doing ratatouille justice, the same cannot be said for all chefs. “You want them to melt, but also to be able to recognise each vegetable in the finished dish.”įor this to occur, each vegetable must be fried separately in olive oil before being simmered in a tomato- and onion-based sauce. “They have to be perfect squares: not too big, not too small,” she said. While some opt for more rustic half-moons or slices, Niçoise chef Julia Sedefdjian, the youngest Michelin-starred female chef in France, prefers a precise dice.
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